According to the World Apparel and Footwear Network, Luke Meier's name has become much brighter after Jil Sander announced that Luke Meier's husband and wife will become their new creative director. Previously, he was a "low-key" designer for Supreme.
In this era of street fashion, Supreme is definitely the ancestor of the tide brand. Even if there are so many imitators and opponents, there is no second Supreme. This of course has something to do with Luke Meier's design that only reflects the street style in New York, but the fact that this street brand insists on insisting on it is in short supply: don't invest; even if it is already famous, it will not increase production; Without retail, the only official channel is its flagship store in New York, Los Angeles, London, Paris and Tokyo and its e-commerce; a variety of co-branded models, and always weaken the information of the creative team.
According to Angelo Baque, the occasional brand director, Supreme is only paying more attention to the brand itself.
For example, even if Luke Meier worked at Supreme for 8 years, Supreme rarely mentioned him and other designers. So, the story about Supreme has not been much.
Recently, fashion media interviewed Luke Meier. After leaving Supreme, he started running his own brand OAMC. The most recent move was to join Jil Sander. This time, he talked about his experience at Supreme, the work he had started at Jil Sander, and, of course, his view of the word "street style."
1. "What we were thinking at the time was how to make clothes reflect the times."
“From a sociological level, I’m always interested in fashion and Supreme. I’ve found a culture that makes products more engaging. At Supreme, the design was music-related, and it’s still Apparently on the clothes. Not that you want to dress beautifully, Supreme has to do a beautiful coat, we were thinking about how to make clothes reflect the times. Because of this, Supreme can stand out in New York City. This has nothing to do with fashion. The most interesting thing about this is that having your own ideas relate to the world can also make the clothes reflect authenticity. Since then, Supreme's business has also been on track, now It's getting bigger and bigger, and it's changing. But to some extent, the brand's strategy remains the same. I still think that Supreme is still on its own track, not the fashion industry. ."
2. “The status of Supreme in the tide brand depends largely on the cultural background of New York at the timeâ€
“Supreme's position in the street brand is largely determined by the cultural background of New York at the time. From the mid-1990s to the early 2000s, Supreme was a small brand. Then the Internet and social media changed the situation. But before that, you still have to go to the mainstream world to see what is going on in the world."
3. Be your own brand and start thinking about some issues that you won’t think about in Supreme
“When you are making product ideas, you will become more and more interested in the process of production and processing. In the early days of Supreme, we will use a lot of European and Japanese fabrics. Then I began to ask myself, these fabrics have What are the differences? Why are they different? In many cases, Europeans put products first and then think about cultural motives. But when I started doing OAMC, I was doing things for myself, a non-European vision."
"On a practical level, OAMC is getting better and better, and more doors are open to us. I can think about more things and really implement them. As for my plan, the first is to let People really see what we are doing. If you don't have a physical store, or if you only have an e-commerce platform, it's hard to explain all the things that the brand is doing in a comprehensive way. You still have to meet these designs in person. The medium-term plan is to create an environment for the entire collection."
4. “Using the medium is likely to add to the designâ€
“I understand the influence of social media and e-commerce. But, to be honest, as a designer, no matter what is happening around you, each of your series must be beautiful. If someone says that my design doesn’t look on the iPhone. How, this is nothing to me. However, I think that how to display a series on e-commerce is a problem that needs to be studied. You must ensure that the shape and photography of each photo are correct. You can Communicate with the photographer to make sure your design is more realistic. On the contrary, someone taking pictures will make these clothes dead. So, using the medium is likely to add to the design, which is not just the designer's work."
5. "The 'street' has become a very popular word, still very vague"
“People always understand things in a very simple way, such as using ready-made proper nouns (or labeling). I have positioned OAMC as 'a new luxury for men', which is my goal. Now, 'street' It has become a very popular word, and it has basically changed the original definition. I don't know exactly what the word is now. If you look at fashion from a broader perspective, you will find what you see. Fashion actually comes from the street. So, does 'street' refer to a sweatshirt? Or does it refer to a certain kind of sneaker? The word is now a bit vague, and I even think that the connotation of the word has been weakened. Going over to see what Sean Stussy did in the 1980s, that's really creative, which is more creative than what the current high-end fashion brands do. Back to the topic of OAMC, I don't care much about other people. How to position it, I just want other people to see what it looks like."
6. “Jil Sander always has his own point of view, our job is to explain itâ€
“All the time, Lucie Meier and I have been influenced by Jil Sander's work. We can reach a consensus on what is good design. We have been together for 15 years, we can also communicate about aesthetics. As for the future we will do in Jil Sander. The things are quite straightforward and straightforward. Some of my ideas may be different from her, but I think there will always be intertwined gray areas, which will make people excited. No matter why you work for the brand, this brand will definitely have Your own DNA, or a set of languages, all you have to do is work with it. Jil Sander always has his own point of view, and our job is to explain it."
7. The design in Jil Sander may be some works with autobiographical nature.
“I always put my personal taste in the design. I don’t think too much about whether others will hold the opposite opinion. At Jil Sander’s work, we will design both men’s and women’s wear, which will be some Autobiographical works. The DNA of this brand must be considered, but my main strategy is to consider my preferences, as well as Lucie Meier's preferences. This is one of the principles that we will work at Jil Sander next. â€
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